An oval lab grown diamond engagement ring features an elongated diamond and a stone created in a laboratory environment. Comparing cut quality, proportions, clarity, color and settings correctly without spending money on features that are difficult to see is the challenge many buyers face once they decide that they want an oval diamond.
Oval diamonds need to be evaluated more carefully since two stones with the same carat weight can appear to be significantly different. Length-to-width, bow-tie visibility and setting style all contribute to the look of the finished ring on your hand.
This guide covers what to look for in choosing a stone and setting to help you make a more informed decision.
Why Oval Diamonds Require a Different Buying Strategy
Oval diamonds do not require the same buying strategy as round brilliant diamonds.
Round stones tend to have standardized cut measurements. Oval stones vary in outline since some are narrower and longer while others are wider and more rounded in appearance.
Neither type is better since the choice depends on your preference in the appearance.
The elongated shape of an oval can also cause it to appear to be a larger size from the top than some other diamond shapes that may have the same carat weight, since more of the stone’s surface can be visible when viewed face up.
Instead of comparing carat weight, you should compare the actual millimeter dimensions of different diamonds.
For example:
One 1.5 carat oval may be longer than another 1.5 carat oval since the carat weight distribution may be different.
Start With the Length-to-Width Ratio
The length-to-width ratio determines the amount of stretch or roundness in the oval diamond.
The formula is simply to divide the diamond length by the width or vice versa.
A lower ratio creates a fuller oval and a higher ratio produces a longer and narrower oval diamond.
There is no single ratio that all buyers should look for. Instead you should compare a few stones side-by-side.
A more elongated oval may appear to have a longer line on the finger and a wider oval can have a softer outline that may work better with some setting styles.
Do not choose based on the ratio alone since two stones with similar ratios can have different outlines due to the shoulders and ends.
Check the Bow-Tie Before Buying a Stone
One of the most important features to look for when buying an oval diamond is the bow-tie effect.
The bow tie is a dark area of the diamond that is caused by the interaction of light with an elongated diamond shape.
Some bow-tie appearance is common in oval diamonds. The important question is whether you think it detracts from the overall appearance of the stone.
You should look at clear photos and videos rather than relying on the grading report.
If a video is available you can rotate the lab grown diamonds and see how the center responds.
A heavier dark band may make the center of the diamond appear to be less bright. A softer bow tie may be much less noticeable when worn.
Understand How Lab Grown Works
Lab grown diamonds are formed using technology that recreates the conditions necessary to form a diamond crystal.
They have the same basic carbon crystal structure as mined diamonds and can also get graded reports that assess characteristics such as clarity and carat weight.
The difference is the origin of the stone.
This can make a difference in the comparison of prices and where some of your budget may be better spent – on carat size, setting quality or other elements of the ring.
You should still evaluate a lab grown diamond individually since laboratory origin does not always ensure that all of the stones will look the same.
Proportions, inclusions, color and light interaction can all vary from one to another.
Do Not Pay Extra for Clarity You Cannot See
Clarity refers to internal features and surface features that can be found in a diamond.
Higher clarity grades typically increase the price. That does not always mean you need to get the highest grade available.
For an engagement ring, the practical goal is often to find a diamond that looks clean to the naked eye.
Oval diamonds can sometimes hide some inclusions due to the faceting pattern. Other inclusions may be even more visible to your eye depending on their location.
You should take a particular interest in the inclusions that are close to the center since those are more likely to be noticed.
Inclusions that are close to the edge can be much less visible and may even be found hidden under a prong.
Check the clarity grade listed on the grading report.
Look at the inclusion plot if a report is provided.
Examine magnified images of the actual diamond.
Look at the actual size of the diamond as well as under magnification.
A higher grade technically would have limited practical value if you cannot see the difference when magnification is not used.
Choose Color Based on Your Setting
Diamond color should not be evaluated independently from the metal used in the ring.
White gold and platinum can make differences in diamond color more visible in some stones. Yellow gold and rose gold can allow for a different relationship between the diamond and setting.
Oval diamonds can also have color differences that are more visible along their pointed ends.
If you are looking at two diamonds that are very close in color grading, you should look at actual photos or videos rather than expecting that one with a higher rating will definitely be more desirable to you.
You may discover that a lower grade has been found to be appropriately white to your eye and that you can spend more of your budget on size or setting quality.
Compare Your Carat Weight With Measurements
Carat weighs a diamond rather than its volume.
This is particularly important when it comes to oval diamonds.
Two diamonds can easily have the same weight but significantly different lengths and widths. One of them may look much larger from the top.
When comparing, you must look at three components:
Carat weight
Length and width measurements
Depth percentage
A stone with too much weight hidden in depth may look smaller from the top than another diamond that has the same weight.
This is why it is so easy to purchase the wrong diamond when comparing only based on carat weight.
Choose a Setting That Offers Protection for Your Oval
The setting plays a role in both the appearance and the daily wear of your ring.
Oval diamonds have curves along their sides and narrower ends. Secure prongs are important in supporting the stone while also allowing light in.
A four-prong setting adds to the simplicity of appearance and exposes more of the stone. A six-prong design provides extra points of contact around the stone.
A bezel setting surrounds the diamond with metal, providing a unique appearance and greater coverage around the edge.
Your lifestyle can determine what is a good choice.
If you frequently use your hands, you may find that a lower-profile center stone can be easier to live with than a higher center stone.
Solitaire Settings
A solitaire helps you avoid drawing attention away from the center diamond.
This setting is a good choice if you want to keep the oval outline easily identifiable. It also makes comparisons to the size of the band easier since you can see the band width directly.
Halo Settings
A halo places small diamonds around the center stone.
It also changes the overall shape and increases the area of the ring. You should examine the spacing between the center diamond and the halo carefully since inconsistent gaps can impact the appearance.
Three-Stone Settings
Three-stone settings place small stones on each side of the oval center.
The shape and size of the small side stones matter, since pear, round and tapered baguette side stones each create a very different appearance from the center diamond to the band.
Match the Band Width to the Center Stone
Band width affects the overall appearance of the ring’s size and stability.
A very narrow band can make the center stone appear more prominent. It can also appear to be more delicate.
A wider band creates more weight around the stone.
You should look at the diamond and band as a single design rather than trying to choose one without considering the other.
For example:
A narrow elongated oval on a narrow band can have a very different balance than a wider oval on a substantial band.
Neither is necessarily better. You must examine the proportions based on the appearance that you want.
Review the Grading Report But Do Not Rely Solely on It
A grading report can provide valuable information about the characteristics of the diamond.
Check the report for the carat weight, color, clarity and dimensions. Make sure the report number matches the diamond that you plan to order.
The report cannot truly show you what an oval diamond looks like in realistic circumstances.
Images and videos can help you understand features of the diamond that cannot be described adequately through numbers. These include the outline, bow-tie, brightness pattern and visible inclusions.
Using the grading report is one way to determine the characteristics of the diamond, but you should not rely entirely on it.
Establish a Budget Based on Differences That Are Visible
A practical budget should focus on the elements that are visible.
You may not need to spend money on very high clarity if a lower grade is clean to the eye. You may also prefer a slightly lower color grade if a difference is hard to see when the mount is being worn.
You should compare a number of combinations before making a decision.
For example:
Rather than choosing the highest grade of clarity within your budget, you may want to compare whether reducing the clarity slightly will allow you to have better dimensions or a setting that fits your needs more closely.
The goal is to balance the ring as a whole rather than maximizing one element.
What to Check Before You Buy
Before you order an oval lab grown diamond engagement ring you should look at the stone and setting together.
Check the length and width of the diamond in millimeters.
Compare its length-to-width ratio to other oval diamonds.
Evaluate the bow-tie effect in photos or video.
Look for visible inclusions rather than the clarity grade.
Consider diamond color with your chosen metal.
See how high the diamond is above the finger.
Make sure the setting has secure support.
Review the grading report and compare it to the stone.
Doing this will allow you to make comparisons based on the actual appearance of the diamond rather than relying solely on grade labels.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do oval lab grown diamonds look bigger than round diamonds?
An oval diamond can look bigger from the top than a round diamond of the same size since its carat weight may be distributed over a longer visible surface. Actual dimensions still vary by stone and you should compare millimeter measurements.
What should I look for first in an oval diamond?
Start with the outline and length-to-width ratio and then inspect the bow tie, visible clarity, color and overall face-up dimensions. Photos and videos of the actual stone are particularly valuable.
Is an oval lab grown diamond engagement ring suitable for daily wear?
Yes. The setting is an important consideration for everyday wear. Choose a secure prong setting or a protective setting style and consider how high the stone is if you frequently use your hands.